Mercure's travel guides

Two distinct towns on either side of the wide River Danube, neatly combined into one: Buda – its cobbled streets alive with old world charm – and Pest, straightforward and businesslike. The two were joined to each other and to Óbuda (Old Buda) in 1873 to form the Budapest we know today: cosmopolitan, photogenic and wonderfully inviting.

One of the first structures to link the two towns, Széchenyi Lánchíd (Chain Bridge), is an extravaganza of grand curves and stone lions, while the simpler Margaret Bridge leads to Margitsziget, or Margaret Island. For a fine bird's-eye view of the river climb Gellért-hegy hill; a monument at the top commemorates the city's liberation from the Nazis. Even better, take the chairlift up to the Erzsébet (Elizabeth) look-out tower, for views of Buda, Pest and the lush, green expanse of the Buda hills.

It's easy to find your way around, as the Danube forms a natural navigation point. Look for the parliament building on the Pest riverbank, or Buda Palace on the Buda side. If you get lost, jump on a tram heading for Széll Kálmán tér, Buda's bustling centre. Budapest's districts are numbered, with the core of the city made of districts 5, 6, 7 and 1. Roman numerals often denote a particular district – for example, "VII" before an address indicates district 7.

Budapest's tram system is excellent. Take tram 2 for a good, cheap sightseeing circuit – although you'll have to invent the commentary yourself. Cruises also run down the Danube River, with hydrofoils travelling as far as Vienna and Bratislava, and a fun amphibious bus offers tours on both land and water.

Pamper yourself in Budapest's medicinal spas. Thermal springs flow underneath the city and are tapped by various bath-houses: locals and tourists alike enjoy the healing powers of the waters along with massages and spa treatments. For free relaxation, head for Városliget, Budapest's largest city park and perfect for picnicking, strolling around the lakes and general lazing about. In winter you can even ice-skate. Within the park is Vajdahunyad Castle, a late 19th-century mish-mash of Hungarian architectural styles; nearby you'll find Heroes' Square, the Museum of Fine Arts and the Millennium Monument.

If life in Budapest is starting to sound easy, there is one aspect that is not: the language. One thing you ought to get right is the pronunciation of Budapest, "Buda-pesht".